From the early hours until late in the night, the streets are swarmed by marooning bikes, often with three or four people aboard! A cyclo is available on most street corners, but unless you are planning a particularly long trip, the best way to explore Hanoi is by foot. It seems in Hanoi that no two streets meet at ninety degrees, so you can count on getting lost, and spending hours wandering the meandering streets of the city. A map is invaluable during this kind of Hanoi excursion, as when you find something that really tickles your fancy, without a map, you can count on not being able to find it again.

During the Vietnam War, sections of Hanoi were damaged by US bombing, but there is virtually no evidence of that now, except for the craters surrounding Hanoi Airport. The particularly thin, tall, and often awkward looking buildings that you see are not a result of heavy bombing, but are created by landowners who own only a thin slice of land so build up rather than out. Hanoi has a number of lovely parks and museums where you can while away the hours of a warm summer’s afternoon, and some nice cafes suited to the cold winter mornings. One thing the people of Hanoi ca really thank the French for is their pastries. Hanoi has a plentiful and delicious collection of pastry stores spread all over the city. The pastries are without par in Vietnam and very cheap, making for a delicious snack or meal.

Finally, the people of Hanoi are reckoned the warmest and most approachable in the country. Though English is not as commonly spoken as in the South, many of the older generation have a working vocabulary of French. Regardless of language, people will attempt to have a conversation with you irrespective of whether you can understand them. Many of the cyclo drivers speak some English and often have very interesting pasts that they are now willing to discuss with foreigners. At times in Hanoi, you could be sitting in a cafe sipping excellent coffee, eating great pastry, chatting in French to an old beret clad gentleman, whilst as you look out the window you can see the great French style buildings in the shadows of fig trees. At times like these you can really wonder just what country you really are in. Hanoi, a city to be savored.

Sightseeing on your very first morning in Hanoi should begin with a visit to Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum, without a doubt the city’s single most visited site, and one of Vietnam's most revered places. The cyclo ride from Hoan Kiem Lake takes only about five minutes. The Mausoleum is open only in the mornings, from 7:30 to 10:30 in the Summer and from 8:00 to 11:00 in the Winter. There are often large crowds, so arrive early.

This imposing shrine was built on the edge of Ba Dinh Square, the place where Ho Chi Minh delivered the Declaration of Independence of the Republic of Viet Nam to half a million of his countrymen in 1945, following the surrender of the Japanese. The angular gray granite edifice stands stern and alone against the skyline. The street and square are usually so abandoned that the whole scene is enormously stately, like a miniature version of Tiananmen Square.

As you exit on the side of the building, look for the ornate yellow former Governor’s Palace, which also faces Ba Dinh Square. Although not open to the public, it is a poignant contrast to Ho Chi Minh's House on Stilts, which sits along a tiny lake in the wooded park behind. He lived and worked here in incredible simplicity from 1958 to 1969. Built of teak, the little house is an architectural gem, and many of his personal things remain on display.

The Ho Chi Minh Museum is probably Vietnam's most important contemporary architectural achievement. Opened to the public in 1990 to commemorate Ho’s centenary, the exhibits are like a huge scrap book which chronicles his rather transient early years. Guides are available.

The One Pillar Pagoda is about 50 meters away. This little architectural curiosity gets its name because the shrine sits atop a single massive pedestal. The original was built by Emperor Ly Thai To, who was inspired by a dream.

You can not help being overwhelmed by the serenity of Van Mieu (Temple of Literature) and Quoc Tu Giam (National University) from the moment you pass through its towering gates. Together, they make one of Asia’s loveliest spots. Hidden from the humming metropolis behind high stone walls and ancient Frangipani trees are some of Vietnam’s most magnificent religious structures and historical treasures. Great pools filled with blooming Lotus bear names like "Well of Heavenly Clarity". Dating from 1076, this was this part of Asia’s most prestigious center of learning for aristocrats and the children of the Mandarins. The focal point of the site is the Sanctuary dedicated to Confucius, which is filled with elaborate Chinese reliquary. Live performances of traditional folk music by costumed women are ongoing during public hours. Army museum Along Dien Bien Phu Street, towards Uncle Ho’s house, the Army Museum has a concise and stimulating collection of war relics from throughout Vietnam’s long struggle for liberation. The displays in regard to the Chinese, French and American aggression are fascinating.

The museum holds the tank that burst through the gates in Saigon during the battle for liberation.  There is also the usual assortment of military waste including a Mig fighter, anti aircraft missiles, tanks, an impressive pile of wreckage from a US B52 bomber and a French prop driven plane that were both shot down in the Hanoi  area.

Beside the Army Museum there is a 59m high ancient flag tower that marks the tallest point in Hanoi displaying the flag of the united Vietnam. From here, there are unbeatable panoramic views of the city. Watch your head on the climb up though. The flag tower was once part of the Hanoi Citadel built in 1812. Over time the citadel has been destroyed, partly by the French in 1882, and almost completely by developers in 1897.

HOAN KIEM LAKE & NGOC SON TEMPLE
They are located in the heart of the city. Legends said that on the occasion of King Le Loi's relaxation trip by sampan on the lake after the victory over the Ming aggressors, a Golden Tortoise emerged to request him to return the holy sword given to him by the Sky God to protect the country against the enemy. This small lake is nicely bordered by age - old trees. In the extreme north is an islet accessible by a wooden bridge painted red namely The Huc. The small temple of Ngoc Son of 19th century is dedicated to General Tran Hung Dao, a hero against the Mongolians in the 13th century together with three genies: La To, the pioneer of medical career; Nguyen Van Xuong, the genie of literature; Tran Vu, the genie of martial arts. In the middle of the lake is the tortoise tower considered as the contemporary symbol of Hanoi.

Hanoi Citadel
Just to the west of the Old Quarter is the Hanoi Citadel, originally constructed by Emperor Gia Long (ruled 1802-1819). Unfortunately, the Citadel is now a military base and also the residence of high-ranking officers and their families - in other words, closed to the public. Also, there is no longer much to see because it was mostly destroyed by French troops in 1894 - US bombing took care of the rest.

Water Puppetry
If you want to gain only one piece of cultural background whilst in Vietnam, you may as well make it the water puppets that can be seen in a number of Vietnamese cities, including Hanoi. First class seats cost 40,000d and allow you to sit within the first five rows only if you need a shower ...

St Joseph Cathedral
This Catholic cathedral was completed in 1887, by Monseigneur Pigneau de Behaine. It was closed in 1975 upon reunification of Vietnam, and was not reopened until 1985. The neo-gothic style of the cathedral looks somewhat out of place in the busy and typically Vietnamese streets of Hanoi, although it is built in the French quarter of the city! If you happen to be in Hanoi for Christmas, this is the place to visit. The courtyard of the church becomes a huge gathering point on a real carnival atmosphere, with fairy floss venders and the like. The church itself has a striking making a quiet escape from the noisy Hanoi streets.

Opera House
The magnificent 900 seat Hanoi Opera House (Tel. 825 4312), which faces east up Pho Trang Tien, was built in 1911 and recently saw the completion of a painstaking three year renovation. It was from a balcony of this building that a Viet Minh-run committee of citizens announced that it had taken over the city on 16 August 1945. Periodic performances are held here in the evenings. The theatre's Vietnamese name, Nha Hat Lon, appropriately translates to 'House Sing Big'. 

Maison Centrale
The Hoa Lo Prison was given the name Hanoi Hilton by American prisoners of war held here during the Vietnam War. According to the North Vietnamese, these soldiers were not covered by the Geneva Convention regarding the treatment of war prisoners because America never officially declared war on Vietnam. This infamous prison, was built by the French in the early twentieth century and continued to be used as a prison up until fairly recently.